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Beugel

Beugel, beigel, bagel -- let's call the whole thing off

Bagel, beigel, Beugel. Three words: one English, one Yiddish, one German. They all share the same root: the old-/middle-German words 'pouc' or 'bouc,' which denote a ring. From 'pouc' or 'bouc' we get Beugel, which then becomes bagel/beigel. At first I thought these two items might somehow be related, yet insofar as I can tell, the bagel -- which is, of course, a hand-formed, part-boiled, part-baked yeast roll which is wonderfully chewy -- and the Viennese Beugel -- a kinked, sweet yeast pastry, shaped rather like a horseshoe, filled with either poppy seeds or walnuts -- have nothing to do with other, culinary-speaking. The sweet Beugel seems to have come first in the year 1403, while in 1610, the first known mention of the bagel was recorded in Krakow. (There persists a myth that a Jewish baker in Vienna conceived of either the bagel/beigel or the Beugel as a thank-you for the Polish king Jan Sobieski to mark his decisive role in ending the Turkish occupation of the Habsburgs' capital, but this would seem to be just that -- legend.)

Credit: Dr. Bernd Gross (CC BY-SA 4.0)

The way to tell a Nussbeugel (nuts) from a Mohnbeugel (poppy seeds) at the bakers is by the shape. Traditionally, the Mohnbeugel should be V-shaped, with a pronounced kink in the middle, like in the picture above, while a Nussbeugel should appear rounder, more like the letter C. I prefer the Nussbeugel myself, and for me, it's important that a Nussbeugel predominately tastes of walnut. Not raisins, not lemon zest, nor any other ingredients ostensibly designed to make the flavour profile more complex. Simply, nuts. And to this end, I consider those sold in Anker, one of Vienna's larger bakery chains, to be the best Nussbeugeln in the city.

Subscribe to "Strudel, Sugar and Schlag" by entering your email address below to receive alerts about new posts or follow this blog on Instagram, Facebook or Twitter. Cover image: Dr. Bernd Gross (CC BY-SA 4.0)